The Four Types of Hair Color and Hair Dyes

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There is more to choosing the right hair color than deciding what the desired final result should look like. The right type of hair color in relation to lifestyle and maintenance must also be considered. The four most common classifications of hair color in a salon or for at-home color are temporary, semi-permanent, demi-permanent or “deposit only,” and permanent hair color.

Temporary Hair Color: How it Works and and What Hair Type Temporary Color is Best For

Temporary hair color is available in a variety of forms, including hair color rinses, shampoos, color conditioners, gels, sprays, or foams. Temporary hair color is designed to last through only a small amount of shampoos, making it an option for someone who is experimenting with a new look, or who would like to change their existing look for a special occasion or costume.

Temporary hair color lasts only a short amount of time because the molecules of the pigment are large, preventing them from penetrating the cuticle layer of the hair. As a result, the color molecules adhere to the outer layer of the hair shaft and is easily removed with just one or two shampoos.

The intensity of temporary hair color can vary between the type of product, the brand, and the color. Dry or damaged hair may absorb more of the color than other hair types, resulting in a longer or brighter result.

Semi-Permanent Hair Color: Information About Semi-Permanent Hair Dyes

Semi-permanent color has a more refined molecular structure than temporary color. Therefore, semi-permanent color will last through repeated shampooing, though it may fade somewhat each time. Typically, semi-permanent hair color lasts 5 – 10 washings, or just a few weeks’ time. Semi-permanent hair color contains low levels of developing agent, such as peroxide or ammonia. This makes semi-permanent dyes safer for damaged or dry hair, as well as other color-sensitive hair types.

The result of semi-permanent hair color depends largely on the original color of the hair, as well as the porosity of each strand. The effect is a variety of subtle shade differences in the color, even though the same solution was applied to each strand. The result is a more natural appearance than the results of permanent color. However, white and grey hair may not color to the same shades as the rest of the hair.

Like temporary hair color, semi-permanent color cannot lighten the hair.

Demi-permanent Hair Color Information

Demi-permanent hair color or hair dye, sometimes referred to as “deposit only” color is a form of permanent hair color. However, it contains an alkaline agent, like ethanolamine or sodium cabonate, so they are less effective in removing the natural pigment of the hair than ammonia. This type of color is always used with a developer, but often may be lower in peroxide concentration than those used with a fully permanent hair dye. As a result, demi-permanent hair color cannot be used to lighten the hair beyond the color it was before coloring. However, demi-permanent color is less damaging overall to most hair types.

Demi-permanent hair dye is more effective at providing coverage of grey hair than semi-permanent hair, but has fewer options for grey hair than permanent colors. The final color result with demi-permanent colors is more natural than solid, permanent color. Demi-permanent hair color washes out over time, typically in 20 to 28 washes. As a result, regrowth is less obvious than with permanent color.

Using Permanent Hair Color

All permanent hair color products or lighteners contain a developing agent and an alkalizing agent (ammonia). When the pigment containing the alkalizing ingredient combines with the developing agent, a chemical reaction occurs. This reaction swells the hair, allowing the pigment to enter the cortex of the hair, where melanin is located. Melanin, the body’s natural pigment producer, is then lightened and colored over by the new color. The swelling action allows the hair color to penetrate deeper into the hair, creating a long-lasting hair color.

Permanent hair color can fade over time, but it is truly permanent and cannot be washed out. When new hair grows, the color difference between the new hair and the colored hair will be differentiated by an obvious line of contrast.

Removing permanent hair color can be damaging to the hair, as it is often done by using bleaching techniques, or using a strong color remover to strip the hair. Many stylists choose to remove permanent color by adding highlights and new color over a period of time, rather than bleach the hair to remove the color all at once.

Bleaching the Hair: Information About Hair Color Lightening and Bleaching

Many consumers think that highlights are created with hair coloring products, when they are really created by removing color from the hair. Bleaching, which can also be referred to as hair lightening, is a chemical process that diffuses natural and artificial hair color from the hair shaft. It raises the cuticle of the hair, making the hair more porous, allowing the color to be removed. Depending on the hair type, previous color, and texture, bleaching the hair may cause inconsistent color results, as well as damage to the hair overall.

For ultra-light blonde shades, a colorist may apply a toner to the hair after bleaching. This helps the hair color appear more balanced and consistent in color and tonality. Some colorists encourage clients to return in between hair color appointments for an additional toner application, or recommend color shampoos and conditioners for in between appointments, as well.

Hair Color Type Resources

Sewanee University History of Hair Coloring Agents and How They Work
University of Buffalo Report on Colloid and Surface Phenomena with Hair Coloring Types
M.I.T. Article on No-Ammonia Hair Dyes

Resource by AnnaBelle

Annalise Kaylor is a freelance writer, editor, and consultant specializing in search engine optimized content for the web. As a writer, her work has appeared across the United States in print ads for Whirlpool, Maytag, Home Depot, and Lowe's, among others. As a consultant, she has worked primarily in the education sector, helping universities increase their web visibility and construct and implement social media strategy. Annalise is an avid reader, knitter, organic gardener and baker, as well as the author of the popular baking blog, Knead To Be Loaved. Annalise enjoys fly fishing, camping, and hiking.

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